Protected Designations of Origin and Geographical Indications are formulas for protecting products with roots in a specific geographical area. Their existence helps to give visibility to the product, establishes rules for its production and, above all, helps to protect and ensure the future of a gastronomic tradition. In the case of cider and perry, there are 22 designations and indications worldwide.
The main difference between PDOs and PGIs is the specification, which is generally more restrictive for PDOs than for PGIs. In the former, each and every one of the processes of a food product must be carried out in the defined geographical area to which the designation refers, whereas in the case of indications, only one of the processes may be carried out in that area. For example, the PGI Turrón de Jijona and Alicante allow the use of foreign almonds, one of the main raw materials. This could not happen in the case of a DO.
In the Basque Country there are 20 Designations of Origin, three of which are supra-autonomous (Rioja, Idiazabal and Cava). Nafarroa is the region with the highest number of protected designations of origin (12), including 5 single-estate wines. In the Basque Autonomous Community there are 7, including the 3 supra-autonomic ones mentioned above, and in Ipar Euskal Herria there are 4, which will soon increase to 5 with the extension of our DO Euskal Sagardoa, which will become the first cross-border designation of origin in Europe.
There are around 1,700 DOs and GIs for wine in the world, while there are only 22 for ciders and perries. Of these, 7 are located in France (soon to be 8 with the extension of Euskal Sagardoa) and 2 in Spain (in the Basque Country and Asturias). In Normandy and Brittany, moreover, there are Geographical Indications that encompass all the regions, in addition to the specific Designations of Origin, which are produced in a more specific geographical environment and with their own regulations. The UK has 8 Protected Geographical Indications, which since leaving the EU no longer depend on the European Commission, although there are agreements in place for mutual respect of designations.
Cider is a relatively unknown product, especially where there is no tradition. Even in those places where it is produced and consumed, knowledge of other realities outside its geographical environment is rather limited. Even though it is a comparatively small reality, we thought it would be interesting to bring here a list of the denominations and indications of ciders and perries in the world.
GI CIDRE DE BRETAGNE and CIDRE DE NORMANDIE
These are two separate geographical indications. Each of them covers the region that gives them their name: Brittany and Normandy. The two regulations are identical, differing only in the geographical area of production. They are much more permissive regulations than the appellations of origin of these same regions. In the case of both indications, all the processes must take place in the geographical area indicated, except for packaging, which may possibly take place outside. Both allow the addition of water, the use of concentrated musts (up to 40%), sweetening with cider apple must, pasteurisation and gasification, either by natural methods (traditional or charmat) or forced carbonation (exogenous).
DO CIDRE COTENTIN
Located in Normandy, bathed by the waters of the English Channel on the peninsula that gives it its name, the Cidre Cotentin AOC was created in 2016. There are currently 10 producers within the regulation, making a full-bodied cider with a light sweetness, with characteristic bitter notes imparted by the local cider apples. The regulation does not allow the addition of Co2 or pasteurisation, and the cider can be Brut or Extra-brut. Some of the traditional apples used to make the cider are: Belle fille de la Manche (bitter-sweet), Clos Renaux (sweet) and Petit Jaune (sour).
DO CIDRE DU PERCHE
Esta denominación de origen normanda existe desde 2020 y aglutina a 7 productores que elaboran unas 150.000 botellas anualmente, con zumo de manzana fresco proveniente de 153 hectáreas de manzanos en agricultura orgánica. El pliego de condiciones autoriza el empleo de 40 variedades de manzana de sidra de las más de 200 que existen en Normandía: Gringoire (amarga), Atroche (dulce), Moulin à vent (dulce-amarga) Groseille y Queue Torse (ácidas). Se elabora mediante fermentación espontánea con levaduras autóctonas. Es una sidra espumosa cuyo Co2 se obtiene mediante segunda fermentación en botella.
DO POIRÉ DOMFRONT
Se trata de la única denominación de origen existente para una sidra de pera o perada en el mundo, elaborada en la comuna normanda de Domfront, situada en el departamento de Orne. Actualmente hay 15 productores asociados, que elaboran perada con peras provenientes de los cerca de 100.000 perales de la región, con una productividad de 25.000 toneladas. Algunos árboles son capaces de producir una tonelada de fruta. La denominación permite el empleo de 30 variedades de peras, pero al menos el 40% de la Poiré Domfrontais debe provenir de la principal variedad Plant de Blanc. Otras variedades empleadas son Rouge Vigné, Gros Blot, Plant Roux, De Cloche y Gaubert.
DO CIDRE PAYS D’AUGE
Pays d’Auge ciders are made from apples from the specific geographical area, also located in Normandy. It was approved in 1996. The specifications are quite strict as far as the cultivation of the fruit is concerned. All apple orchards must have at least 70% sour varieties, no more than 15% sour apples and no more than 60% of one variety may be grown on the same plot. It also sets yield limits for both apple orchards and apple trees. In total, there are 48 varieties that can be used in the appellation, including the following: Bedan, Bisquet (phenolic); Cockroach, Germaine (sweet) and Rambault (acidic).
DO CIDRE CORNOUAILLE
It is the only protected designation of origin in Brittany, and includes producers from the Finistère region. It was created in 1996 and today includes nearly 70 producers. Traditionally, Breton ciders (as well as some Normandy ciders) are made by creating the ‘chapeau brun’ (brown hat) to remove the pectin and clarify the final result. The AOC is quite strict in terms of planting frames and productivity of fruit trees, although these yields can be modified by order of the authorities if the weather conditions have been very unfavourable. Some of the apples used are: Kermerrien, Marie Ménard (bitter); Prat Yeaod, Douce Moên (bitter-sweet); Douce Coêtligné, Avalou Bélein (sweet); Guillevic (sour). The latter is also used to make a single-varietal cider with Label Rouge Royal Guillevic.
DO CIDER FROM PUNUCAPA
Punucapa is a Chilean town located in the commune of Valdivia, in the region of Los Ríos, with a long tradition in the production of chicha and cider. It is not the only place in Chile where cider is made, but it is the only one with an appellation, created in 2017. Seventy-five per cent of the apples used to make it must come from the locality that gives it its name, while the rest can be sourced from the province of Valdivia to which it belongs. The regulations establish conditions on how the fruit is harvested and how the cider is made, which must have between 4 and 5 degrees of alcohol and more than 45 grams of sugar per litre. Some permitted apple varieties are: Pineapple, Candelaria, Limona, Norespai, Nata, Reineta, Limón Montes, Plátano, Caramela and Cabeza de Niño.
DO CIDER FROM ASTURIAS
Together with the Basque one, it is the only designation of origin in Spain, as well as the oldest, since it has been in operation since 2003. Almost 1,000 hectares of apple trees are registered in the DO, spread over 855 orchards or apple orchards. At present, 31 cider presses belong to the DO, making cider from 76 authorised varieties. Asturian cider apples are divided into 9 categories: sweet, bitter-sweet, bitter, semi-acid, semi-acid-bitter, bitter-semi-acid, bitter-semi-acid, acid, bitter-sour and bitter-acid. Some of the most commonly used varieties are: Xuanina, Verdialona, De la Riega, Raxao, Durona de Tresali, Regona, Amariega and Madiedo. The DO classifies its products into 3 variants: Traditional, New Expression and sparkling.
DO EUSKAL SAGARDOA
Designation of origin for Basque cider has been in operation since 2017, pending final approval by the European Commission. It has recently extended the specifications so that wineries from Ipar Euskal Herria can also participate, so if everything goes smoothly it will soon become the first cross-border DO in Europe. It also leaves open the possibility of Nafarroa’s participation in the future. With some 500 hectares of cider apple trees and 139 permitted varieties, 48 wineries currently make sagardoa under the auspices of the Regulatory Council. The new specification classifies the varieties into 4 main groups, and some of the most commonly used apples are: Goikoetxe (acidic), Gezamina (bitter), Moko (acid-bitter) and Aran Gorri (sweet).
IG SIDER FRA HARDANGER
It is not a Denomination of Origin but a Geographical Indication of the cider produced in the Hardanger Fjord in Norway, which has a particular climate despite its latitude, thanks to its orography and the Gulf Stream that attenuates the cold temperatures and allows the cultivation of apples. As it is outside the EU, it does not need the approval of the European Commission, but it uses similar regulations and requirements. In fact, although the PGI is generally more lax, in the case of Hardanger it is a rather strict regulation as far as the origin of the raw material is concerned, as only cider made 100% from apples grown in the fjord can carry the label. In addition, all processes must take place in the fjord. It was approved in 2009 and already has 25 cider producers. Some of the most common varieties are: Aroma, Gravenstein, Discovery, Summered, Tormod and Franskar.
IG CIDRE DE GLACE DU QUÉBEC
Canadian Geographical Indication for ice cider made in Quebec, which currently has only 4 producers. The juice can be obtained by cryo-extraction (frozen apples) or cryo-concentration (frozen must), always using natural cold, although there may be exceptions if the weather is not favourable. The cider can be still or sparkling and must be made exclusively from late varieties grown in Quebec and harvested at maturity. Quebec Ice Cider must be between 9 and 13 proof and have a residual sugar of more than 140 grams per litre. Table varieties (McIntosh, Cortland, Empire), cider varieties (Geneva, Golden Russet, Dolgo, Diva) and wild apples are used.
IG MADEIRA CIDER
This Portuguese Protected Geographical Indication seeks to preserve a tradition that dates back to the time of the colonisation of the island, more than 500 years ago. All stages of production must take place on the island of Madeira, namely: Obtaining the raw material, extracting the must, fermentation, maturation, bottling and conservation. It is made by fermenting the natural must from the pressing of fresh apples and sometimes also from mixtures of apples and pears grown exclusively on the island. The varieties used are cider apples (Barral, Cara-de-dama, Pero Branco, Bico de melro, Da Festa , Domingos , Da Ponta do Pargo , Calhau , Focinho de rat, Vime), table apples (Golden , Fuji , Starking , Royal Gala, Reineta) and pears (Do Santo, Tenra de São Jorge).
IG HESSISCHER APFELWEIN
Hessian apple wine or Hessian cider is made by fermenting apple juice with a 100% fruit content, which is fermented, clarified and bottled only in Hessen. It is traditionally produced from apples with a high degree of acidity (at least 6 g/l), typical of the varieties of the region. It is a dry cider and its effervescence comes from the carbon dioxide produced during fermentation. The addition of water and sugar is not permitted in the production of Apfelwein. Sometimes the juice of the rowan fruit (speierling) is added to reduce the cloudiness and increase the body. In total, more than 2 000 varieties are grown in Hessen, of which some of the most commonly used for making Apfelwein are: Holzapfel, Ananasrenette, Glockenapfel, Rheinischer Bohnapfel, Goldparmäne, Schafsnase, Bittenfelder, Weinapfel, Gewürzluike, Kaiser Wilhelm, Landsberger Renette and Boskoop, among others.
IG HEREFORDSHIRE, GLOUCESTERSHIRE Y WORCESTERSHIRE CIDER & PERRY
En Inglaterra existen varias Indicaciones Geográficas Protegidas para sidra y perada, en los condados de Gloucestershire, Herefordshire y Worcestershire, conocidos como los Tres Condados. Todas ellas tienen un reglamento idéntico, aprobado en 1996. Solamente se diferencian en que las manzanas y peras deben cultivarse en cada uno de los condados mencionados. Se definen como sidras o peradas elaboradas mediante la fermentación del jugo de manzanas de sidra o de peras de perada tradicionales cultivadas localmente. Se permite el uso de zumo concentrado y la chaptalización. Algunas de las variedades de manzana permitidas son: Brown Snout, Bulmer’s Norman, Dabinett, Ellis Bitter, Kingston Black, Michelin, Redstreak y Yarlington Mill. Algunas de las variedades de peras utilizadas son: Blakeney Red, Hellens’ Early y Brown Bess.
IG TRADITIONAL WELSH CIDER & PERRY
Cider and perry have a long tradition and historical significance in Wales and have had a protected designation since 2017. Traditional Welsh Cider (Welsh: Seidr Cymreig Traddodiadol) and Traditional Welsh Perry (Welsh: Perai Cymreig Traddodiadol) are made from the fresh must of apples or pears grown in Wales. The addition of concentrated juices, sugars, sweeteners, colourings and artificial carbonation is not permitted. The growing of the fruit, the production of the must from the first pressing, the fermentation process and the final finishing must take place within the defined geographical area. Some of the traditional apple varieties are: Pig Aderyn, Gwell Na Mil, Pig Yr Wydd, Perthyre, Twyn Y Sheriff, Cadwaladr, Afal Anghidi, Cadwallade. As far as perry pears are concerned, these are some of the most common: Arwen, Berllanderi Green and Red, Boy pear, Dingat, Felin Fach, Gellygen Godidog, Gwehelog, Monmouth Red, Rhydlydan, Sant Gwytherin.
Author: Haritz Rodriguez – @ciderzale | Marketing consultant and certified Pommelier (cider sommelier)
Source: Sagardoaren Lurraldea Yearbook 2024