San Sebastián's Best Kept Secret: Its Cider Houses

Descripción

There's no shortage of articles on the amazing food scene in San Sebastián. Or television shows. Did you catch Anthony Bourdain's recent Parts Unknown episode where he eats his way through the city's best restaurants? I did. I devoured the episode like I was planning to devour San Sebastian's food, which I happened to be heading to two days later.

astigarraga donostia sidrería petritegi sidrería txotx sidrería zapiain sidrería zelaia

Ficha

• Autor: Breanna Wilson
• Fuente: Forbes
• Fecha: 2017-06-14
• Clasificación: 2.0. Sidrería
• Tipo documento: Prensa
• Fondo: Sagardoetxea Fondoa
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• Código: NA-007470

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And it’s absolutely true. There’s no such thing as a bad restaurant in San Sebastián. But there’s also so much more there.

Like the Cider Houses. Or sidrerías, as they’re known locally.

Their history in this area goes back centuries. Even earlier than the 11th and 12th century, when people actually started writing about the cider that was coming from this part of the world (and the whalers and fishermen who infamously lived off of it at sea).

And the traditions carry through today. A place for friends and family to sit and enjoy the best of what the area has to offer – from a giant steak to the crisp and refreshing cider – all in a communal setting, the experience comes together quite nicely. And with harvesting and bottling season in the fall, the most authentic of the Basque sidrerías are only open from mid-January through the end of April, although you’ll find plenty that are open year-round.

But it’s the locals that you’ll find inside that really make visiting a cider house something that you have to do when you’re here. You’ll find yourself in the middle of a wedding party or a family dinner, standing in line between groomsmen, grandparents and even children to take over the pour from the txotx (pronounced /CHO-ch/) – the large wooden barrel that holds the cider – just like you’re part of the family.

And don’t worry, everyone is friendly here. And that’s the appeal. You truly feel welcomed. And it’s not just the cider speaking (it’s only 4-6% alcohol anyways).

How to Pour

When you hear “Txotx!” – it’s time to hit the 15,000-litre chestnut barrel.

But you don’t have to wait for an invitation to try your hand at pouring your own cider. But you should take note how the locals are doing it, before jumping in.

Because cider isn’t carbonated. So when you pour, you have to create a long stream (which is easy because the tap really shoots out the cider with some force) by holding your cup as far away from the spout as you can manage. Naturally aerating and creating the effervescence that the cider needs.

And don’t be greedy – a two to four ounce pour is all you should go for. But don’t worry, you can go back as many times as you like. You’re handed a cup as soon as you walk in (before you’re even seated), and it’s as many pours as you can handle.

Typical Sidrería Menu

The full sidrería experience includes a meal. Which is always communal, and almost always the same courses of: a salt cod omelette to start, followed by fried salt cod with peppers and onions, a bone-in ribeye steak, and cheese, quince jelly and crack-you-own walnuts to finish. An uncut baguette may also already be waiting for you on the table. Because, according to tradition, cider is best enjoyed with a meal.

The experience is a flat fee, usually somewhere in the 28 euro range.

Three Sidrería Favorites

Heading outside of San Sebastián, to the small town of Astigarraga, 20 minute drive southeast, this is the heart of cider country. Buses are easy to catch here, but taxis will run you less than 20 euros each way. And when it’s time to leave, sidrerías have no problem calling a taxi for you.

Petritegi

With more than 700 seats spread across three cavernous rooms, Petritegi is one of those places where you walk in and immediately feel like family. Even with 699 people (mostly locals) all around you. Open year-round, Petritegi feels as authentic as it gets.

Open year-round.

Zapiain

The best part about a visit to Zapiain is that they export their cider to the U.S., so the chances of finding a bottle back home are pretty good. Reminisce on the sounds, smells and tastes as you pour your own glass (with the Spanish flair that you undoubtedly picked up) back at home.

Open January through April.

Zelaia

Deepest into the heart of Basque cider country, south of Astigarraga and into Hernani, Zelaia is a traditional cider house at its core. No seats and no easy-to-turn taps, cider spouts out by releasing a thin txotx (peg) instead.

Open January through April.